911爆料

Fashion In The Age Of The Pandemic

 As spring blooms in earnest, Jacqueline Scerbinski shared highlights of how the pandemic has affected spring fashions at a recent talk at the Southampton History Museum. A professor of fashion and marketing in the Business of Fashion program at 911爆料 Community College, Scerbinski has had her eye trained on fashion trends for decades.

She is a former retail executive for both Associated Merchandising Corporation and May Department Stores, where she was a corporate buyer covering markets in the U.S. and the Far East. After leaving the retail industry, she worked in the manufacturing sector as the national sales manager and stylist for a branded intimate apparel line. She brings her extensive industry background to the classroom.

鈥淭he past teaches us that times of great trauma can produce moments of great creativity,鈥� said Scerbinski. 鈥淲e鈥檝e been through a lot of traumas over the past many years 鈥� great wars, recessions, and pandemics.鈥�

She shared that after the 14^th century bubonic plague, we saw more body-conscious dressing, plunging decolletage (necklines) and lavish adornments. In 1947, right after the second World War, Christian Dior announced his new look: a symbol of regeneration with full skirts and fashion details that became the boom we saw in the 1950鈥檚. And, after the oil crisis in the 1970鈥檚, we saw a burst of color.

鈥淐olor is very important,鈥� she explained. 鈥淚t鈥檚 one of the first things we forecast out, before we get to fabric, silhouette or style, or anything.鈥� This past winter featured very neutral and muted colors: a reflection of how people were feeling in the midst of the pandemic.

Pantone, the industry鈥檚 color standard, chose two extremes for 2021 to represent our gradual emergence from the pandemic: Pantone 13-0647 鈥� Illuminating (yellow) and Pantone 17-5104 鈥� Ultimate Grey. 鈥淭he yellow demonstrates our hope for a better future today, while the grey shows the somber undertones of what we鈥檙e living through,鈥� she said. At the same time, men will be wearing very vibrant colors.

There are other trends afoot.

As TV ads have teased, with the prominence of Zoom, many opted to look professional on top, while wearing sweats or pj鈥檚 (or sometimes less) on the bottom. April clothing sales were down 79% but sweatpants and leggings were up 80%.

鈥淲e were more concerned with feeling comfortable and not necessarily highlighting our bodies,鈥� she explained. Sweaters became big sellers, with women embracing all-in-one oversized, elongated sweater dresses and turtlenecks: things that were easy to wear.

There has also been an uptick in sleepwear sales: 鈥淎fter the world hit a pause last March, people were home more and wanted to look nice. There were trends in buying a good-looking pair of pajamas rather than putting together something you had at home.鈥� Today, it鈥檚 not unusual to find people wearing expensive 鈥� but comfortable 鈥� pj鈥檚 outside of their homes.

In addition to being vital to our health, masks have also become a fashion accessory. 鈥淵ou鈥檝e begun seeing masks for every person and lifestyle on the runway, and some can be quite expensive, with matching fabrics used from high-end to less expensive brands.鈥�

There鈥檚 a new focus on the eyes because of masks: Lipstick sales are down 15% but eye makeup is up 204%. (And false eyelashes are up 15%.)

Eyeglasses are also trending, with people who don鈥檛 need them for everyday use buying fashionable ones to match their outfits.

Even footwear has become relaxed: 鈥淐rocs have made a comeback, with both men and women. And you鈥檙e finding plain white sneakers, even in the couture market.鈥�

Because of the economic impact of the pandemic, we鈥檙e reaching back in time. 鈥淲e still want newness, but it feels inappropriate,鈥� remarked Scerbinski. 鈥淲e鈥檙e recognizing that timeless fashion holds its value and can be re-worn.鈥� The resale of vintage and thrift goods is expected to rise from $28 billion a year to $64 billion by 2024.

Consumers are also going into their closets and doing a 鈥渇ashion diet鈥�: Rather than buying new outfits, they are mixing and matching outfits from what they already own. 鈥淭he idea of a 鈥榗apsule wardrobe鈥� is not a new concept. Most savvy women do this anyway. When Donna Karan came out with her line of 鈥渟even easy pieces鈥� in the 80s, she said all you need are these seven pieces to mix & match and look good.鈥�

Many companies are struggling to survive the pandemic economy and looking for new ways to survive. To stay afloat, brands and manufacturers are proposing later deliveries, meaning that new merchandise will be delivered closer to the season consumers will wear them, and fewer collections being brought to market.

To stay relevant, they are also finding creative ways to promote their products online, including virtual fitting rooms.

What鈥檚 possible after this pandemic? Is there still going to be an office dress code 鈥� perhaps one for Zoom calls?

After months of sweatpants and 鈥淶oom sweaters,鈥� Scerbinski doesn鈥檛 see us about to let go of comfort that fast. 鈥淪pring wear will be comfortable and casual, with not a lot of tailoring,鈥� she noted. 鈥淲atch for 鈥渃ozy鈥� clothes including elastic waistbands, t-shirts, and loosely fitted, androgynous separates.鈥�

To hear Prof. Scerbinski鈥檚 complete talk, visit .

To learn more about the Business of Fashion program at 911爆料 Community College, visit .

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